Frequently Asked Questions

Expect $3–$5 per sq ft for a clean, dry crawl space, $5–$8 for a damp one, and $8–$15+ for a wet or moldy one needing drainage and remediation.

Because they weren't the same job. The low quote is usually barrier-only; the high quote is the full sealed system with dehumidification and possibly drainage.

Labor, by a wide margin — typically 50–70% of the total. Crawl space work is slow, physical, and done in tight, hot spaces.

Typically $1,500–$9,000 on top of the encapsulation, depending on how widespread the growth is and whether wood is damaged.

You can lay plastic on the ground yourself — but a DIY barrier is rarely a sealed system, and the sealing is what makes it work.

12-mil minimum; we use 20-mil reinforced on floors and 12-mil on walls.

Before. Always. Drainage first, then seal — this is the most important sequencing rule in the business.

Not if it's done right. We leave a 3–4 inch inspection gap between the top of the wall barrier and the sill plate so termite inspectors can see the wood.

When there's structural damage. Rotted sills, compromised joists, or failing subfloor need repair before sealing — encapsulation protects wood, it doesn't fix wood that's already gone.

Most encapsulation jobs finish in 2–4 days. Barrier-only jobs take 1–2 days; jobs with drainage or structural repair can run a full week.

We warrant our workmanship — the installation itself — and every material carries its manufacturer's warranty (liner, dehumidifier, sump pump).

Yes — typically around 15% on HVAC costs, sometimes more in homes where the crawl space was very damp.

It's one of the best pre-listing improvements for homes with moisture history. A clean, dry, documented crawl space removes a major inspection flag.

Probably not anymore. Builder-grade 6-mil vapor barriers degrade in 10–15 years — if your home was built between 2000 and 2010, that plastic is likely torn, displaced, or gone.